Clarendon Hills Astralis星光園垂直年份套組
「Roman Bratasiuk(Clarendon Hills釀酒師)是全球最偉大的釀酒師之一」- Robert Parker Jr. 《The World’s Greatest Wine Estates》
Robert Parker在一次蒙瓶試飲中,被一支酒迷得神魂顛倒,這支酒便是克勒雷登山酒莊的旗艦酒款星光園(Astralis),從1994年Robert Parker喝到的首個年份開始,之後每年的分數都高得嚇人,2001到2006更是連續7年99分,在世界名酒版圖中占有一席之地。
20多年前,羅曼還是個汲汲營營的生化工程師,每天都在實驗室中與數字、化學、科技為伍。忙碌的生活中,最能讓羅曼放鬆的莫過於下班後的三更半夜,開一瓶上好的布根地美酒,但一個簡單而瘋狂的想法,在羅曼的腦中慢慢浮現出來。1990年羅曼放棄人人稱羨的工程師工作,一股腦的投入釀酒的事業中。他的釀酒原則只有三個「老藤、量少而精、全新法國橡木桶」,工程師背景的他反而討厭科技對葡萄酒的干預,與布根地一樣重視葡萄園的「風土」與自然的原則,四處尋訪下終於在麥克拉倫谷(McLaren Vale)找到符合他心中的風水寶地。
不同於「Henschke」與「Penfolds」已經傳承超過五代的澳洲釀酒世家,Clarendon Hills克勒雷登山酒莊成立於1990,第二代也才剛開始進入酒莊工作;不過短短的25年間已成為澳洲酒莊的三巨頭之一,與世界名酒們並駕齊驅,一切歸功於莊主羅曼.布拉塔瑞克(Roman Bratasiuk)。
2005 RP 99
A great classic, the inky/purple-colored 2005 Syrah Astralis is a 40-50 year effort. Although closed, it displays gorgeous but subtle notes of smoked meats, black currants, graphite, new saddle leather, truffles, and blackberries. Remarkably elegant for a wine of such power and intensity, this complex, rich, full-bodied, backward Syrah has totally absorbed its aging in 100% French oak, and appears set for a long life. If you plan on drinking it over the next 4-5 years, it will need 24 hours of decanting. It should be at its finest between 2012-2035
2006 RP 99
Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2006 Astralis has stunning nose redolent of warm blackberries, meat, toast and charcoal, infused with notes of smoked duck, anise and a slight bit of peat. Though still very youthful, this big, rich, and powerful full-bodied wine has firm yet velvety tannins, a vibrant acid line and is very long on the finish. Drink it now to 2026+.
I am grateful to Roman Bratasiuk for presenting me with small verticals from his cellar of some of his greatest vineyard sources for this report, including the Merlot (as an indication that Merlot can do well in Australia!), the Old Vines/Romas Vineyard Grenache and a vertical of the Astralis vineyard Shiraz going back to 1991. Readers should note that the 2011 vintage Clarendon Hills wines are being released a little later than usual and therefore were not available for tasting in time for this report. However, I have been informed that they will be available for tasting very soon and will hopefully make the South Australia report.
2007 RP 97
Clarendon Hills’ flagship is the 2007 Syrah Astralis. It is an exemplar of what old vines and a great terroir can achieve in a less than great vintage. Aromas of pain grille, pencil lead, tar, underbrush, meat, licorice, and blackberry lead to a burly, masculine version of Astralis. It has tremendous grip, plenty of fine-grained tannin, layers of savory fruit, and 10-12 years of aging potential. Patience will be required.
In a sign of the times, pricing for Roman Bratasiuk’s Clarendon Hills portfolio has been reduced by close to 50% across the board. Suddenly, most of the wines offer an excellent price to quality relationship. As usual, the Clarendon Hills wines are unblended, 100% varietal, sourced from mostly old-vine, ungrafted, single vineyards, fermented naturally, and bottled without fining or filtration. Only seasoned oak is used for the Grenache bottlings, 100% new French oak for the Merlot and Cabernets, and 50-100% new French oak for the Syrahs depending upon the cuvee. There is a new addition to the portfolio, a Mourvedre sourced from 12 year old vines and aged in 2 year old French oak. The year 2007 was more difficult than the three that preceded it, marked by a 45-50% reduction in crop levels and elevated tannin from the resulting thick skins. As Bratasiuk notes, “Tight, drying tannin is the hallmark of the vintage.” Nevertheless, this is an impressive collection from one of Australia’s icon wineries.
2008 RP97
Also deep garnet-purple in color, the 2008 Astralis is a little reduced and brooding on the nose showing aromas of dark berries, meat, licorice and dark chocolate. Big, full-bodied and rich in the mouth it has balanced acid along with medium-firm grainy tannins. It finishes long and balanced. Drink it now to 2028+.
I am grateful to Roman Bratasiuk for presenting me with small verticals from his cellar of some of his greatest vineyard sources for this report, including the Merlot (as an indication that Merlot can do well in Australia!), the Old Vines/Romas Vineyard Grenache and a vertical of the Astralis vineyard Shiraz going back to 1991. Readers should note that the 2011 vintage Clarendon Hills wines are being released a little later than usual and therefore were not available for tasting in time for this report. However, I have been informed that they will be available for tasting very soon and will hopefully make the South Australia report.
2009 RP 97+
Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2009 Astralis presents a very fruity, floral nose with lifted notes of blueberries. The palate is concentrated with a slight prune character and has very crisp acidity. At this stage the phenolics are showing a little chewy before finishing long. Drink it now to 2027+.
I am grateful to Roman Bratasiuk for presenting me with small verticals from his cellar of some of his greatest vineyard sources for this report, including the Merlot (as an indication that Merlot can do well in Australia!), the Old Vines/Romas Vineyard Grenache and a vertical of the Astralis vineyard Shiraz going back to 1991. Readers should note that the 2011 vintage Clarendon Hills wines are being released a little later than usual and therefore were not available for tasting in time for this report. However, I have been informed that they will be available for tasting very soon and will hopefully make the South Australia report.
2010 RP 100
Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2010 Astralis is still quite primary eliciting aromas of black plums, blueberry compote and blackcurrant liqueur with a savory and baking spice undercurrent plus a fragrant whiff of violets. Very structured, fine and complex in the medium to full-bodied mouth, this wine is revealing much more than when I first tasted it a year ago and is now showing layer upon layer of black fruit preserves, mocha, toast and spices before finishing with great length. Extraordinary wine. Approachable now, it should cellar to 2030+.
I am grateful to Roman Bratasiuk for presenting me with small verticals from his cellar of some of his greatest vineyard sources for this report, including the Merlot (as an indication that Merlot can do well in Australia!), the Old Vines/Romas Vineyard Grenache and a vertical of the Astralis vineyard Shiraz going back to 1991. Readers should note that the 2011 vintage Clarendon Hills wines are being released a little later than usual and therefore were not available for tasting in time for this report. However, I have been informed that they will be available for tasting very soon and will hopefully make the South Australia report
樂活VIP 限量供應6個經典年分,年產量約6千瓶
Clarendon Hills Astralis星光園 垂直年份套組
2005-2010 原裝六入木箱
預計11月底到貨
留言列表