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澳大利亞葡萄業巨   奔富酒莊  

 

奔富酒莊(Penfolds),位於澳大利亞南澳省阿德雷德(Adelaide)郊區,樂菲山(Loffy Mountain)旁之Magill(馬吉爾)。建立於西元1844年的奔富酒廠,由移民自英國倫敦的醫生-克里斯多福.羅森.奔富(Dr. Christopher Rawson Penfold)與妻子Mary Penfold創立。從一間以Mary家鄉命名,被稱為格蘭吉(Grange)的簡陋石屋、來自法國南部接枝的幾株葡萄苗與合計約莫5公頃的土地,開始製酒事業。起初主要生產藥用加烈葡萄酒-雪莉酒與波特酒,卻意外受到眾人喜愛,才反客為主的進行商業性質製酒。經過奔富家族數代傳承,與170年的悠悠歲月淬鍊,目前的奔富酒莊已然成為澳洲最具規模的葡萄酒業集團,亦被視為澳洲最優秀的製酒廠,更以質量兼具的紅、白酒聞名於世。

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奔富家族在澳大利亞經營超過一個半世紀,處處可見得他們精準無比,充滿遠見的投資眼光。陸續在南澳省各地購置頂級葡萄園,做為旗下酒款的穩定原料供應:巴洛莎谷Barossa Valley、克雷山谷Clare Valley、伊甸山谷Eden ValleyCoonawarra庫那瓦拉等地,均可見得奔富酒莊所屬的葡萄園。

其中最具代表性的乃是Kalimna Vineyard與Magill Estate兩個經典葡萄園。 

Magill Estate,為奔富酒莊的首創園,佔地約莫5.34公頃。土壤結構主要為紅色砂土,底層則由石灰岩與頁岩構成。公元1844年起,才開始栽種葡萄,早期主要栽種格那希(Grenache),至公元1951年才開始栽種希拉滋(Shiraz)。

Kalimna Vineyard,位於Barossa Valley,主要土壤為砂土與紅粘土。自公元1888年起,即有葡萄栽種記錄,園內多為產量穩定,品質絕佳的老藤,園區內甚至具有樹齡突破百年的葡萄老藤。

 

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奔富酒莊自二十世紀中葉後,僅更換過四任首席製酒師。他們除擁有對於葡萄酒市場的敏銳嗅覺外,更具備對於葡萄酒釀製的熱情。對於奔富酒莊而言,若將他們擁有的出色葡萄園視為千里馬,那麼這幾位堅持製酒品質的偉大製酒人,就是它們的伯樂,葡萄酒的質量也才得以與日俱增,並保持著風格整齊。

奔富酒莊,目前最為人所稱道的頂級酒款,就是曾在葡萄酒拍賣會上以新台幣150萬元定槌的逸品-格蘭吉(Grange。這款不可多得的頂級佳釀,是當年奔富酒莊總製酒師Max Schbert獨排眾議所釀製的動人作品。

但,奔富酒莊除了製作高貴輝煌的珍藏酒款外,亦然擁有價格平實、風味細緻的產品問世。他們利用澳洲當地多變的風土環境,與他們充足的人力、物力,變化出各式具有奔富風格的系烈酒款。

 

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~Tasting Note~

 

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2010 Grange BIN 95

W/A 99, W/S 98



 

Color Black to the core, purple on the rim

 

Aroma Intense. An immediate barrel-ferment propulsion – sweet and candied, with a peaty, iodine, green olive base.Beneath this, a barely-concealed swirl of Vegemite/yeast extract/concentrated salt-paste - laced with paprika, oregano flower and thyme. A slurry of cocoa powder, a scented waft of black pudding, and a splash of nori-roll/sea-spray temporarily balance this aromatic equation.But then, a minute or two later all changes…

Palate Dense, paste-like texture and weight. A balsamic liveliness/lift/energy is unleashed. Tannins focus on the roof of the mouth, laden with an additional film of (85% cacao) dark chocolate, mocha. A mix of quince and sesame-paste laden with basted meats and saturated stewed plum, boysenberry, blueberry. Tightly bound – wait for decompression! Complete, Confident, Convincing.

 

 

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2012 BIN 389

W/A 91, W/S 91

Color Vermilion to the rim.
Aroma  A Penfolds nose with all the trimmings—formic/ferric, barrel-ferment complexities, soy and demi-glace pan scrapings.
Palate   Lively. Intense, generous and vibrant fruits—with volume! Stewed quince, rhubarb and loquat laced with cocoa, cedary oak. Mouth-coating, ripe tannins augment an even and sweet palate continuum…textured and complete. 

 

 

 

 

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2012 BIN 407

W/A 92, W/S 90

 

Colour  Dense dark red.

Aroma Instantly Penfolds – emboldened by its formic disposition and complexity.Mint/dry herb (rosemary/sage) varietal reminiscences.

Wafts of Chorizo (red) sausage; tomato and red capsicum pizza base/bruschetta. Integrated, perfumed oak (polished teak, brown boot-polish).

Palate Varietally IDd and expressive – green olive and a market-garden foray– broccoli/spinach/broad beans/broad-leaf legumes.Fresh acidity coupled with ‘non-shy’ tannins induce structural linearity / definition / liveliness.A firm finish. A persistent ‘afterglow’.Oak well-hidden, awoken with a swirl.

 

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2013 BIN 28

W/A 91+, W/S 91

 

Colour Deep red

Aroma Savoury notes quickly hit the radar – gravy/pan-juices, vegemite/soy. Fruits emit quickly thereafter –boysenberry/mulberry, quince paste. Wafts of cocoa powder and a hint of vanillin entwine playfully beneath.Tanned (fresh) leather cautiously follows...

Palate Medium-bodied. Balanced. Elegantly proportioned, yet with a firm underpinning. A familial trio of a dark-berried compote, boiled fruitcake mixture and fine chocolate powder – to the varietal tune of Shiraz. ‘Binding’ tannins add to length, reinforcing the extract/character/body of the wine.

 

 

 

奔富酒莊 特惠專案

 

 

 

飲  酒  過  量        有  礙  健  康

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